In addtion to this list, there are many variants that were manufactured under different brand names such as Realist, Graflex, Tower, Argus, Photrix and MPP/Iloca. I have split the range into two groups - the Iloca Single Lens Camera page for non-stereo (2D) models, and the Iloca Stereo Camera page for the stereo (3D) models.
A few words about old cameras...
All Iloca cameras are now more than fifty years old, and many of them would have spent the last 30 to 40 years in storage. Therefore, unless they been recently serviced, they will most likely be sluggish in operation (especially at the slower shutter speeds) if in fact they work at all. However, most models are quite robust and, as long as they are complete and free from damage, seem to respond well to a good clean and service. The shutter synchronisation on the stereo models seems quite accurate, and is even capable of giving good results with action shots (such as spray from waves breaking on rocks). It is doubtful whether the fastest speeds on older shutters will ever live up to the claimed figures, but as long as they operate with consistent speeds, these cameras should still be quite functional. Once cleaned and serviced, there is no reason why one of these old cameras won't perform at an acceptable level. The difficulty these days is finding someone to take on the task of repairs and maintenance, and at a cost that is affordable.
If, however, a camera is damaged or is missing parts, then that is quite a different matter. Such condition usually renders the device inoperable, and relegates it to the spare parts bin.
One other word about cameras of this era - it is important to note that almost everything about them is manually controlled, particularly on earlier models where there is vitually no automation at your disposal. To take a photo, you must manually advance the film, manually set the shutter tension on some models, manually adjust the focus, manually select the shutter speed, and manually select the aperture setting. On models that don't have built-in rangefinders or lightmeters, you can of course use auxiliary units to help with these settings. Otherwise, you can estimate (or simply just guess!) the correct settings. Only one model, the Iloca Electric, offers the choice of interchangeable lenses to vary the focal length. So, if you want to zoom in with any of the other models, you will need move the camera closer to the subject (if possible); if you want to zoom out, then you will need to move it further away (if possible). If you change your vantage point, you will need to refocus, and probably need to readjust the other settings. And one final point - the older style lens coatings aren't as effective at keeping out stray light, so a set of suitable lens hoods and/or filters will be quite useful.
At this stage you might be starting to wonder if vintage photography can ever be a worthwhile pursuit. Or maybe you're thinking that it all sounds like more trouble than it's worth. However, in my opinion, this is all part of the challenge and mystique that comes from using one of these old film cameras. Despite the limitations (or perhaps because of them), therre is still a sense of satisfaction when you do manage to produce an eye-catching photo using equipment from a bygone era.
In summary, taking photos with one of these old cameras can be an enjoyable experience once you get used to it. It is satisfying to produce good results without the aid of all the mod cons available on today's cameras. And of course, there is always that sense of anticipation that comes with this type of equipment as you wait expectantly for your roll of film to be developed, hoping that you have captured at least a few nice shots.
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